The Ganga at Varanasi.
The city, which is built on one bank of the majestic river, is like a supersized rabbit warren, with narrow lanes which disorient the visitor (and perhaps some residents). Not much seems to have changed since 1956 when Satyajit Ray, the great Indian film director, filmed Aparajito (the second of his Apu trilogy) here. Even the monkeys are still a nuisance: Ray recorded the hazards they presented in his memoir My Years With Apu. By a stroke of good fortune I'd bought a copy just before I arrived and so was able to read what he'd written while looking out from the guesthouse balcony at the passing traffic on the river and the ghats.
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